Thanksgiving & Pinot Noir - The Pinot Project 2011

I pulled a couple of shifts at my local store last weekend helping folks find their way around while dispensing advice (when asked for of course), and much has been written about what wines to pair with your turkey and stuffing. In truth you could go lots of different ways. But what impressed me the most was that the vast majority of people shopping for Thanksgiving asked for Pinot Noir. It makes perfect sense of course that a lighter style red would fit the bill nicely and Pinot has been steadily climbing in popularity. Of course other light reds came to mind like Beaujolais or even some Chiantis, but California Pinot Noir has what most consumers want - ripe sweet fruit and soft tannins.

Today's post features one of the best entry level Pinot Noir's I have ever had. Some Pinots cross the too ripe and too sweet line for me. Evereyday Pinot Noir should be translucent in color and oriented toward fresh light red berry flavors and no raisiny elements in the aromas. The Pinot Project, despite it's somewhat industrial sounding name, is a Pinot that will please just about everyone - and for only $10.99. This private label project of importer Michael Skurnick has the goods. Prominent aromas of smoky black cherry, raspberry and spice with fairly bold cherryish flavors and excellent balancing acidity that keeps this wine lively. This wine will definitely enhance your Thanksgiving feast, especially if you have a crowd. Cheers.

Table Mates - Lobster and Vouvray Domaine d'Orfeuilles 2010

I wrote up the 2009 version of this wonderful Vouvray sometime last year so this post is a bit of an update with the current 2010 vintage in the spotlight. Chenin Blanc is the grape of Vouvray and it is native to the Loire Valley, having been cultivated there for centuries. It's a late ripening varietal with high natural acidity that easily picks up flavors from the soil in which it grows, in this case from clay and limestone soils that add richness and stony elements. Vouvrays, when soundly produced, are wonderful wines that have the size and versatility to enhance a wide range of foods. But for me, one of the best pairings for Vouvray is lobster. There's something about the combination of flavors, the richness and the zingy acidity that just make the two a perfect match.

The 2010 Domaine d'Orfeuilles Vouvray features wonderful pear and citrus aromas with wet stones nuances. It's large scaled and creamy in the mouth with wonderful richness and texture. The poached pear and lemon peel flavors are offset nicely with brisk acids and a finishing note of roasted nuts. At $11.99, this is an outstanding bargain as good examples of these wonderful wines can easily go for $20 or so. Vouvrays age magnificently and even entry level examples like this will last 10 years or so, becoming more honeyed as they mature. Cheers!

No power, no water, going mobile-Damilano Arneis '09

First off let me say that my heart goes out to all those folks who hurricane Sandy has devastated. I may be without power for a bit, but those who have lost their homes or businesses are dealing with a life changing event. So when we went out for a bite last night, in part to feel somewhat "normal" again, we visited our favorite fish house, the Blue Point Grill in Princeton. In tow was a bottle of Arneis, a somewhat unknown northern Italian varietal grown chiefly in Roero and the Langhe. This Langhe version from Damilano, a wonderfully consistent producer, is a sure everyday winner at $12.99.

Beautiful aromas of ripe pear are supported with notes of pineapple, orange rind and honey. In the mouth there is excellent body and texture with ripe pear flavors again leading the way with notes of citrus and mint on the long smooth finish. This wine strikes a very attractive balance between it's ripe fruit and supportive acidity. Though less floral than Arneis tends to be, this is a delicious example of the heights that lesser known varietals can achieve. This is an all stainless steel cuvee and it is imported by one of my faves, Vias. Cheers!

Passero Primitivo 2008

Consumers for the most part love big, fruity wines. There is a bevy of Zinfandel fans that frequent my local joint. They like the big fruit, the black pepper notes and the soft, friendly finish. Well, much has been written about Primitivo and Zinfandel possibly being the same grape. They certainly share an aroma and taste profile. Subsequent DNA testing however linked Zin to a Croatian varietal called Crljenak Kaštelansk - and don't ask me how to pronounce that. No matter, Zin lovers should also love most well made Primitivos as well and tonight's example, though not from it's usual home in Puglia is from right next door in Salento.

This beautifully balanced $11.99 quaffer delivers all you want in an everyday wine. It's almost Chianti like in the nose, though riper, with blackberry, baked cherry, leather and cinnamon notes. In the mouth it's big but balanced, with dark berry fruit flavors enhanced by lively acids and a smooth, soft finish. Produced by Alessandro Sala Selezioni and imported by Inno Vino, this is practically the perfect pasta and pizza wine though it will also pair well with roast chicken or grilled sausage. A google search turned up absolutely nothing on this producer, even on the importer's website. Cheers!

Body and Soul - Altos de Luzon 2007

Crowd pleasing Spanish red wines continue to deliver the goods when it comes to concentration and bold fruit flavors - and at prices one can only consider exceptional values. Bodegas Luzon, a large operation located in Jumilla in southeastern Spain has been churning out fantastic everyday reds for a long time. Their entry level $7.99 wines are incredible values. One is the Luzon Cosechca, a hearty blend of 70% Monastrell (Mourvedre) and 30% Syrah. The other is Luzon Verde, a 100% Monastrell cuvee that is organic to boot. I've had and enjoyed both bottlings many times.

Today however I want to tell you about the step up bottling called Altos de Luzon which will set you back a bit more at $12.99, but may be an even better value given the breadth and scope of the product. This awesome wine is a blend consisting of 50% Monastrell and 25% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo. It's very inky purple color leads to brooding aromas of blackberry and cherry jam fruit with notes of cocoa, vanilla and spices - the latter two of which are a result of the 12 months in French and American oak this wine sees prior to bottling. The flavors are also large scaled, with dark berry and plum flavors supported by somewhat high toned acids and smoke and spice notes on the lingering finish. This food friendly wine is a pretty big one for the price and should please just about anyone, especially the "size matters" crowd, and there's nothing wrong with that. An import of Fine Estates From Spain, try this beauty with a hearty beef or lamb stew, or a simple grilled steak. Cheers.

It May be October But I'm Still Loving Roses - Enanzo Rosado 2011

When we decided to pour a French rose at Nomad Pizza in Philly this summer, we turned to a great little wine from an oddball DOC in the Loire Valley called Coteaux D'Ancenis, from Domaine Pierre Guindon. We weren't sure that it would go - I mean Rose with pizza? - but the response was good enough that we decided to keep a rose on the list for fall. This time however we went with a Spanish version of those great pink wines that many think are sweet, but are actually dry.

There's a big difference between the aforementioned cool climate Loire Valley Rose made from Gamay and the much warmer climate Grenache Rose from the Navarra region of northern Spain. The Gamay is lighter in color and more subtle of flavor than the Enanzo - more complex for sure. But the Enanzo has more color and bolder fruit in the mouth. It's bigger in every way and that's something many wine drinkers can relate to. Size matters for some and when it comes to pizza, bolder roses may indeed be a better fit. There's prominent aromas of strawberry and watermelon with distinct floral elements. In the mouth, the red berry flavors are bold and full bodied with a honeyed creaminess on the back end. And, the best part about this beauty is that here in Jersey it can be had for a miserly $8.99. Imported by C&P Wines, you should definitely seek this crowd pleasing rose out. Cheers.

End of Summer Update - Petit Chapeau Cotes du Rhone 2010

I have a soft spot for this utterly drinkable everyday red as it was the first bottle I touted on these pages. As many of you know, I also have a fondness for these blends from the Rhone Valley of southern France. Factor into the equation a great 2010 vintage and a $9.99 price tag and you have a winner. This great little bottle is comprised of 50% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 20% Cinsault, and 5% Mourvedre and is a private label project of Daniel Johnnes, which means that the wine was tailored to his taste and imported with his name on the bottle. Mr. Johnnes is one of the most important Sommeliers in the U.S. and imports quite a few wines as well. Most of the top importers now have at least one private label wine in their portfolio.

The Petit Chapeau red has just what you expect from a Cotes du Rhone, with classic aromas of black cherry, cola, damp earth and a note of black pepper. In the mouth it has excellent concentration to it's dark berry flavors, but never tastes heavy as it's bright acids lend balance and give it lift. It finishes long and lightly tannic and should make excellent company for a roast chicken, grilled sausage or even grilled shrimp. Imported for Daniel Johnnes by Michael Skurnick. Cheers!

Monchhof Estate Riesling 2011

German wines in general, and in particular the Rieslings, continue to be under appreciated by American consumers, even though there are many folks who like their wine a little on the sweet side. A lot of people come in the store I frequent for their white Zinfandel or other sweetish factory wine. Yes these wines are cheap, but once I get people to try a good German Riesling with it's fruity sweetness, balancing acidity and stony minerality, they become more open minded and more open to throwing down a few extra dollars. As they say, "life's too short to drink bad wine". Which brings me to the Monchhof Estate Riesling.

Germany had a difficult spring and early summer in 2011 but the weather turned perfect in August and September and producers were able to harvest fruit in very good condition with optimal ripeness. This estate has been a wine producing entity for some 800 years and it's current owners, the Eymal family, have been producing here since purchasing the estate in 1804. They have holdings in some of the best vineyards in Mosel and this may be the best $14.99 Riesling that money can buy. It's got beautiful aromatics with apricot, peach and that typical stony element so common to good German Riesling. This stony element comes from the slate laden soils of the steep hillside vineyards. In the mouth, this beauty is full-bodied with a somewhat oily texture and white, stone fruit flavors. It's long, lingering finish is sweet but balanced by bracing acidity. This interplay between residual sugar and acidity is an important quality here, the acidity making the wine taste less sweet than it is. This low alcohol wine goes well with Asian food, as an aperitif or even with a fresh fruit dessert. Imported by the Maximum Wine Company from the broker Rudi Wiest. Cheers.

Familia Grittini Areo Malbec 2009

Many Argentinian Malbecs continue to impress me and this $9.99 version from a little known region of Patagonia called Neuquen is a sure everyday winner. It took me quite awhile to find a website associated with the winery as it's name does not appear anywhere in the url. The Areo bottling was not listed anywhere and the importer's website (Simone International) offered no information either. Oh well, this region to the south of Mendoza, Argentina's leading wine producing area, is cooler and supposedly produces wines that are "more European" in style then those from the warmer climates to the north. I had my doubts when I noticed the 14.6% alcohol listing on the label as that kind of ripeness usually says "new world" to me.

Indeed, this wine is boldly fruited and large scaled and has everything you expect from a wine from this side of the Atlantic. To it's credit though, it also presents a measure of complexity you don't usually get at this price point. Big aromas of chocolatey cherry and coffee are prominent along with secondary notes of clove and earth. In the mouth, it's fairly full bodied with dark red fruit flavors and lingering spice notes on the finish. It hides it's high alcohol well with just a hint of heat on the back end.

Fans of the style will find a lot to like here and it's low acid flavors went well with grilled swordfish with pasta and a sauce of tomatoes, eggplant and mint. This fantastic recipe is from a friend and fantastic chef, Jack Kreitzman, whose San Francisco restaurant Jackson Fillmore Trattoria is a spot you should definitely check out when you visit the bay area. It's home style Italian cooking at it's best and at affordable prices. Cheers.

Under the Radar Italy - Gini Soave Classico 2010

Italy is such a vast source of wine. Every other day it seems I read another article about some little known DOC where amazing juice comes from practically unheard of grapes. My favorite blogger Tom Hyland of "Learn Italian Wines" has written extensively on Italian whites of late and it's clear that they are in general a vast and largely under-appreciated category. His post on Soave back in June was eye opening and led me right down to my local joint to see what they had from the region. I remember Bolla's Soave from my youth as being a regular bottle in our house. Choices were fewer back then. Now however, there are great examples of excellent Soave here in the states and tonight's entry level pour from Gini, a top producer in the zone, is one of them.

Made from 100% Garganega grapes that are produced just a bit shy of organic, this bottling is a great example of just how good these wines can be. After a bit of airing, it's aromas open to reveal pineapple, white peach and honey along with floral and nutty nuances. In the mouth, it's medium-bodied white fruit flavors are less tropical than the nose suggests yet fairly bold and wonderfully textured. There is excellent balancing acidity and a long minerally finish. Garganega is an indigenous varietal that ripens late and is too often blended with other varietals such as Pinot Blanc and Trebbiano. On it's own though, it can produce great wines like Gini's. Fermented entirely in stainless and left to rest on it's lees for 6 months, this beauty set me back $13.99. It's imported by Michael Skurnick.

Wine Ratings - The Fallacy of the 100 Point Scale

While working the Friday rush hour at my local wine shop this summer, I came to notice the different kinds of buyers and their strategies. There's the browsers, the label shoppers, the knowledgeable folks who want to talk wine and take a recommendation and the folks who buy by the numbers. These wine shoppers limit their choices to the wines that have big scores from the big critics. Robert Parker, Steve Tanzer and The Wine Spectator are probably the most high profile critics in the business and they all use the 100 point scale. Now don't get me wrong, all of these professionals have been reviewing wine for a lot longer than me and they all have impeccable credentials. I follow Parker and Tanzer in particular, the former because he is the most influential and the latter because I love his tasting notes and the fact that he talks to a lot of the winemakers.

The problem I have is that in our numbers oriented society, the 100 point scale can lead consumers to wrong conclusions. These consumers spend their shopping time reading the "shelf talkers" that are put up by the reps for the wholesalers to tout their high scoring products. But there are many different styles of wine. So for example, 88 points for a Beaujolais and 88 points for a California Cabernet are two completely different worlds. A lighter styled and delicate Beaujolais will probably not please someone with a taste for bigger, brawnier Cali Cab, 88 point score or not. It's way more important to actually read the reviewer's comments on the wine than to focus on the number. Foxglove Chardonnay (which I have written up) from California's Central Coast received a 90 point score from Robert Parker for the '09 vintage. The '09 had sold through and the '10 was on the shelf. This one particular customer would not buy the '10 no matter how hard I tried to convince him that there was probably very little difference between the two vintages. California has remarkably consistent weather and thus has very few bad vintages. Factor in a reputable producer like Varner, the winery that makes Foxglove, and you have about a 90% chance of  acquiring a very good to excellent wine. No 90 point score? Sorry, no sale. It's really disappointing to me when I see that. And, the '10 ended up getting a 90 from Parker anyway. Here's another example. A reviewer gives 90 point scores to both a $7.99 Spanish wine and an $80 red Burgundy. The consumer may think that the Spanish wine is the equal of that Burgundy. Not a chance. Again, these wines are from two different worlds. The Spanish wine will be fruity and basic while the Burgundy will have more elegance, complexity and staying power in terms of being able to age, all the while picking up more nuance and smoothing out it's components. Those two 90 point scores are not equal. What the reviewer says about the wine is much more important than the number itself.

In addition, having grown up in an educational system where numbers rule, some of these shoppers think that anything under 90 points is not even worth drinking. Will there really be an obvious difference between an 87 point wine and a 90 point wine? Probably not, and if so would one be able to pick out which is which in a blind tasting? I doubt it. It's sad because consumers consistently miss out on some really tasty juice simply because there is no number at all, or no big number attached to it. For me, wine is a living thing that changes and matures, even over the short term and even in the everyday category. And that means that it just can't be quantified, no matter how hard we try.  Cheers.

Real Deal Oregon - Rascal Pinot Noir

I've always loved Oregon Pinot Noir. It kind of bridges the old world style of Burgundy and the very fruity new world style of California with elements of both. In general, Oregon Pinots are fruitier than the former but sexier and more delicate than the latter and Pinot Noir fans should really experiment with these wines. If you're describing your everyday Pinot as "jammy", then it won't work for me. If your everyday Pinot is opaque, then it's probably too ripe and sweet for me. Pinot Noir should be light colored and translucent.

Which brings me to today's great find, Rascal Pinot Noir 2011 from the Great Oregon Wine Company. This may be the best entry level Pinot Noir I've tasted and at $8.99, it's a steal. Plus it's pure Willamette Valley fruit. Nowadays, the origin designation you get at this price point usually says something like "California", which means you get Central Valley fruit. Classic Pinot aromas of raspberry, cherry and cinnamon spice greet you. In the mouth, it's light bodied yet full flavored with wonderful red berry flavors, excellent acidity and a toasty note on the back end. It finishes a bit short, but all in all, this is a great example of what I think real Pinot Noir should be. This beauty paired perfectly with a simple roast chicken and it's delicate nature should also make it a great fit with grilled salmon. Cheers.

Update - I get a lot of hits on this post so I thought an update was in order. Once the 2011 of this wine sold out, the producers bottled a non-vintage version which probably consisted of 2010 and 2011 juice. Both '10 and '11 were small yield vintages. The bottling was okay but a lot of retailers passed on it as it is harder to sell non-vintage.  It appears that the 2012 Oregon vintage is both better and higher yielding then '10 or '11 and hopefully the 2012 Rascal will be released soon.