Wednesday, February 8, 2012

Fattoria Selvanova Aglianico "Vignantica" '05

   I've always had a fondness for good Aglianico, the most important grape of Campania in southern Italy. There's always something wild and rustic about wines made from it, and those are characteristics that frequently bring complexity also. Aglianico is the main grape of Taurasi, whose wines have been dubbed by some "the Barolo of the south". In truth, that is a gross over-simplification as wines made from Aglianico and wines from Barolo (which are made with Nebbiolo) actually have little in common. What they do have in common is that they can be very long-lived and deliciously complex. In this case, we have an entry level Aglianico that cost a mere $12.99 and is an '05, which probably means that it isn't selling very fast at my local shop. That's a shame because this wine is still fabulous while most everyday wines that old are probably fading fast. What I love about this wine are the wild aromas of roasted plum, coffee, iron and a distinct forest floor earthiness. It's still got a good fruity mid-palate, excellent acidity and nary a trace of typical hot climate over-ripeness that can be sometimes found in these wines. The very modest 13.5% alcohol is proof of that. It finishes long with some dusty tannins and stony notes. Imported by David Vincent Selections, this is a portfolio I will definitely be on the lookout for. Cheers.

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