Still Kickin' 2014 Rosés - Mas de Gourgonnier Les Baux de Provence

The 2015 rosés will be starting to hit our shores in the coming weeks while many stores still have quite a few 14s on the shelves. There's a perception out there that rosés are fragile wines that need to be consumed within their first year of life and that after that, they start to fall apart quickly. As it turns out that isn't necessarily the case according to Jeff Krietzman, the owner of Maximum Wine Company, an importer and distributor doing business here in New York, New Jersey and Pennsylvania.

"Everybody wants their roses right away so they can get them on the shelf when the reality is that most of them will be better when they've had three to six months in the bottle to come together" says Mr. Krietzman. And as for rosé longevity he says, "it really depends on the individual producer. Most producers rosés will be meant for consumption within the first two or three years while a smaller number will be able to age for five, maybe even 10 years, like Lopez de Heredia for example. But they really are no more fragile than white wines, it depends on how they are made."

During a recent trip to my favorite store, I noticed that there were still quite a lot of 2014 rosés still on the shelf. I've always been a fan of Mas de Gourgonnier, a producer from the Les Baux de Provence AOC that is repped by Michael Skurnick. Both the red and the rosé are produced from organically grown grapes, which is something that is becoming more and more important to me. I'm trying to get as many of the toxins out of my life as possible.

The Mas de Gourgonnier is usually one of the earliest releases of the everyday rosés and I remember how wonderful this bottling was when I tasted it last year. But based on how this 2014 rosé is drinking now, it appears that Mr. Krietzman is correct in his assertions regarding rosés. This wine still has all those beautiful light red berries in the aromas and flavors that it had when it was released, as well as the floral notes. But it is both better and different now. It's not just pure pink in color anymore as it has moved slightly toward a coppery hue. Aromatically it is more complex, having taken on additional notes of orange peel and honey. Those elements repeat in the flavors as well and the lush, creamy mouth feel make this everyday rosé a pure pleasure to drink.... and ponder. This beauty cost me $13.99. Try it with some grilled salmon or shrimp, or a simple roast chicken. Cheers.

Mas de Gourgonnier Les Baux de Provence 2007

   The french word "terroir", when used in wine speak, refers to flavors that come from the soil. This elusive notion at times is a very clear reality, and when you find it, it makes your wine experience special. These flavors that are more than mere fruit are what give wine "a sense of place". In this case, the red blend from Mas de Gourgonnier is one of those wines that as soon as you smell it, your are transported to the rocky soils of Provence in the AOC known as Les Baux de Provence. Wine has been made here for at least 2,600 years and this interesting wine is comprised of Grenache, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Carignan. Lovers of the more new world fruity styles may not care for this wine, but for me, this is what great wine is all about, at any price point. Wild aromas of black pepper, licorice, leather and plummy fruit give you all the sensations of the French countryside...and I could sniff this wine all day. It's got wonderful, medium-bodied plum and black cherry flavors with a heavy dose of Provencal spiciness, all supported by good acidity and a mineral spine. It finishes long with perhaps a bit more tannin than you expect at this price point. Still, this is an excellent value that gives you plenty to talk about while you sip, and I'm sure the '09 and the'10 will be just as good when they hit the market. Imported by Michael Skurnick, this beauty cost me $12.99. Cheers.