Winter White - Argillae Orvieto 2013

The temperatures may be quite frosty here in the northeast but if I'm eating a pan fried delicate fish like flounder, I'm still gonna want a white wine. I'm big on Italian whites these days. There's such incredible variety and value in Italy's biancos that it's a shame that most consumers won't take a chance with some of the great offerings in the everyday price points. There is so much enjoyment to be had beyond Pinot Grigio.

Our trip to Italy last spring turned me on to the beauty of Orvieto's wines. It's a DOC that is Umbria's biggest yet it used to produce mostly dull, uninteresting juice. But now the so-called world-wide quality revolution has obviously touched this little corner of the the globe also. Argillae is a producer repped by one of my favorite importers, Vias. Vias is one of those companies that seems to have no weak spots in the portfolio. There's quality up and down the line. So when I turn a bottle to the back label and see Vias' name, I have no doubt that the wine will be good.

Grechetto and Trebbiano are the main grapes of Orvieto and must account for at least 60% of the blend. Malvasia and Canaiolo Biano will usually make up the balance but in this case there's Sauvignon Blanc and some Chardonnay in the blend also. Now as an Italy purist, I generally eschew international varietals in my Italian wine, but the Argillae Orvieto is so tasty I had to climb down off of my high horse. This $11.99 beauty, which is fermented in stainless steel, has prominent pear and peach aromas along with floral notes and a nutty nuance that comes from a bit of aging on the lees (dead yeast cells). The orchard fruit flavors repeat boldly on the generous mid-palate, but there's bright, crisp acidity on the back end giving this wine lift. Enjoy.

Finca Nueva Rioja Blanco 2009

   I've become a fan of white Riojas, whose purity of fruit and low cost fit perfectly at my dinner table. Viura is the main grape here along with 30% Malvasia and this version was partially barrel fermented and aged for 3 months in French oak. That makes this wine a bit different from the usual entry level white Riojas. The barrel treatment gives this wine wonderful toast and spice notes to go along with the pear and floral aromas. In the mouth, it's ripe and round with excellent concentration and good acidity. Here the wood and the fruit are in perfect balance with apple and spiced pear flavors. It finishes long with toast notes and an attractive mineral spine. Imported by perhaps the top importer of Spanish wine, Tempranillo and the broker Jorge Ordonez, this beauty cost me $13.99 at my local shop. Cheers.

Buccia Nera "Donna Patrizia" Toscana Bianco '09

I know what you're thinking..."what the heck is a Toscana Bianco?" Okay, it's from Tuscany, but wines like this have a very generic sound to them. We all like to know what grapes have gone into the wine we are drinking. Often the varietal(s) are listed in small print on the back label, but how many folks know that? When they don't see it on the front, they move on. But hey, since I've touted the portfolios of certain importers a lot, the readers of this blog should be checking out the back label anyway. Then, when you see that a wine like the Donna Patrizia is from a reputable importer like the Maximum Wine Co., you should not be afraid to check out a $9.99 value like this. And when you do, you will love this wine. This beauty is an indigenous 3 grape blend comprised of 40% Malvasia, 40% Trebbiano and 20% Grechetto. It features soaring, exotic aromas of pink grapefruit, white flowers and a nutty nuance. It's flavors and textures are bolder than you expect at this price point, and put forth citrus, pear and mineral flavors that keep on coming. It finishes long with bright, balancing acidity. It is produced with organically grown grapes and is fermented entirely in stainless steel. This should pair nicely with lighter fish dishes or a simple grilled chicken. The Donna Patrizia is the sister wine of Buccia Nera's wonderful Guarniente Chianti, which I wrote up in April. Cheers.